WHEN you're planning a birthday bash, Italian is always a safe option. Most people like pasta and failing that, if you have a choice of meat and fish dishes too then you can't go far wrong in pleasing everyone.

That, at least, was my friend Karen's thinking behind her birthday dinner for a Saturday evening.

Trattoria da Salvo is tucked away down in the vaults of one of Bath's pretty Georgian buildings and is close to the town centre just a stone's throw from Pulteney Bridge.

But the restaurant is far from claustrophobic the high ceilings and inter-connecting rooms give it a cosy rather than crowded feel.

As we were such a big party (11) we had to pre-order our food before the night, which meant we got a good chance to peruse the menu and take in the long list of dishes, ranging from simple pasta dishes to specialities such as salmon limone and agnello al rosmarino (lamb steak cooked in red wine with garlic, mushrooms and rosemary).

We had barely cracked open the wine before the starters arrived and this was to set a precedent for the evening. Far from being able to relax over the meal, I got the distinct impression that they were daunted by our table and wanted to get us out as quickly as possible.

Anyway, back to the food.

I ordered mozzarella in car-rozza (fried mozzarella in breadcrumbs) to start, while others chose brushetta, deep fried whitebait or French onion soup.

I was pleased with my choice - there were two large wedges of mozzarella served on a bed of salad including basil leaves. It was absolutely delicious, crispy on the outside, suitably gooey on the inside.

Everyone seemed to enjoy their starters, although Jane thought her choice of mozzarella caprese (slices of cheese, tomato and basil) was a little on the stingy side, but to be fair, it would suit someone who doesn't have a large appetite.

A short while later, our main courses arrived, which proved to be a great demonstration of the choice of dishes the restaurant has to offer.

Aside from pasta dishes including lasagne, spag bol and penne al pollo (penne with chicken, mushrooms and garlic) some chose meat dishes including pollo alla siciliana (chicken with artichokes, mushrooms, tomatoes and onions) and filetto di manzo (fillet steak). These were served with a generous helping of fresh vegetables and potatoes.

I chose one of the house specialities, conchiglie alla salvo, pasta shells baked with meat, bacon, tomato, cheese and a bchamel sauce. It was well-cooked and the serving was just right, but I thought it lacked flavour. To me, it didn't even taste as good as a supermarket version. But others were more impressed. Karen, a vegetarian, enjoyed her penne al funghi (mushrooms, cream and garlic) saying it was the best in Bath and Matt loved his lasagne, while everyone else seemed to enjoy their choices, with every plate cleared.

Not feeling too stuffed, most of us wanted a dessert and as Italians are famed for this, we were expecting great things. However, we were to be disappointed.

Not only were the desserts bought in, but they didn't have any tiramisu, which for an Italian restaurant is nothing short of criminal.

Determined to try one out, I went for parfait caramel, while others ordered ice cream sundaes or coffee.

My dessert was, as someone pointed out, a choc ice with a bit of squirty cream around it. It tasted fine, but the damage had been done. What could've been the highlight of the meal turned out to be a fairly bland finale.

We left feeling a little rushed, and although not completely disappointed, we had the impression that the food lacked a certain something. A real shame, as it could've been fantastic.

Trattoria da Salvo

10 North Parade

Bath BA2 4AL

Tel: (01225) 330236

Fact File

Open for lunch Tuesday, Friday and Saturday 12-2.30pm; dinner Monday to Saturday 6.30-11pm.

Starters from £1.50 for garlic bread; mains from £7.50; desserts from £3.50.

Nearest parking at the sports centre on North Parade

Vegetarian options

No disabled access

Party bookings welcome