"Blinding!"After we finished our third course at The Bell at Bowden Hill, near Lacock, this statement from my pal Big Dan summed up how we all felt about the top scoff we'd just enjoyed.

A team-mate of mine at Devizes Rugby Club, the big fella, had taken me to his local, The Bell, a short and pleasant walk from Lacock Abbey, when the Avon Vale hunt rode out on Boxing Day Monday.

After indulging in more of the pub's liquids on that occasion, I had been keen since to return and try the solids, and we left more than satisfied.

For starters I enjoyed prawns in a generous dollop of Marie rose sauce, while Dan destroyed a decent serving of mushroom, stilton and bacon in a bacon sauce.

Tom, a third hungry carnivore, made the best choice of crispy duck spring rolls with sweet chilli sauce.

For the main, Dan took less than a millisecond to jump at the 16oz steak with a pepper sauce supplied by Stiles of Bromham.

Tom was gushing to the point of needing a slap in his praise of a fillet sirloin with Stilton, cream, bacon and brandy sauce, and my duck and stuffing pie was sublime, served with gravy and piping hot vegetables.

The choice of puddings was wide, and Tom's white chocolate ginger cheesecake was outstanding. The raspberry creme brule also went down fantastically well.

Owners Heather and Alan Shepherd celebrate their fifth anniversary at the popular pub this week, and have maintained a partnership with chef Fiona Clarke throughout that time.

Currently on maternity leave, Clarke's place has been taken for the last four months by Stuart Wiggins, and he has added his own personal touch with a cracking beef balti.

But the restaurant, which typically caters for 95 covers on a Saturday night, is not just a haven for red meat eaters.

There is a choice of six vegetarian dishes, but also teriyaki chicken, downland 'jumbo' pork chop, Wiltshire gammon and a variety of seafood including a delicious sounding cheese crusted fillet of cod.

The service was as it should be, efficient and not overbearing, and the staff accommodated the annoying arrival of a fourth dining partner easily, even managing to coincide all the mains.

Beer lovers will note the pub won the North Wiltshire CAMRA (Campaign for Real Ale) pub of the year in 2004, and it also offers a decent range of single malt whiskies and wine to accompany your meal.

There is also a playground, in full view from the restaurant and conservatory, or you can choose to dine in the bar.

Our meal, for three people, came to around £60 not including drinks.

Manager Martin Riley, who has also had a five-year tenure at The Bell, said the pub is proud of its reputation for good, honest home-cooked food.

We were quite proud of the amount of that home-cooked food we were able to consume without needing assistance to leave the premises.

By Stuart Walmsley

The Bell Inn

Bowden Hill, Lacock

(01249) 730308

Fact file

Opening hours (Mon-Fri 11.30am to 2.30pm then 6pm to 11pm. Sat 11.30am to 11pm and Sun noon to 10.30pm)

Ample parking

Disabled access

Major credit cards accepted

Children's and vegetarian menu

Restaurant non smoking, bar smoking